OK folks – here’s reason number 2 for purchasing Philbert:
Philbert has almost everything wrong that you would typically find with an older, used bike that you plan I riding on a regular basis, and I plan to go through each problem step by step so you, my dear reader, can make an informed decision.
Here’s a rundown of Philbert’s foibles:
N ot only are parts for rod brakes heavy, the
rims are difficult to find and there’s no selection. But, if you want a heavy chrome rim without
eyelets made in China that's hard to keep true with daily use, you’re in luck. Forget
about light double wall constructed rims made of more exotic materials like aluminum.
The bike will need a complete repaint and new decal set, unless you’re into the whole patina look, which I’m not. Let’s face it, Philbert has no monetary or historical value, even though it’s 53 years old.
Phillips cranked out bikes like Philbert by the thousands every year they were in business,
so to leave a bike in this condition and call it patina, is like leaving a 1961 Ford
Thunderbird with rusted quarter panels, sagging doors, missing trim and a ratty
interior untouched and calling it “patina.”
Most people would think you were out of your mind, including me.
The chain is old and rusty, so it’s not worth keeping on the
bike for reliability and safety’s sake.
The forks are bent. At this point I’m not sure if they can be reset or are too far gone and need to be replaced. I don’t see any damage to the frame but plan to get the frame checked out anyway for another concern...
So there you have it.
Darn near everything that could go wrong with a bike wrapped up into one
eyesore of a package!
Philbert has almost everything wrong that you would typically find with an older, used bike that you plan I riding on a regular basis, and I plan to go through each problem step by step so you, my dear reader, can make an informed decision.
Old Technology
Let’s face it rod brakes, although still used on new bikes
in other countries, are heavy and not really that effective; especially when
compared to other brake designs such as caliper, linear pull (V and canti) and disc brakes.
They also require the use of Westwood rims, which are especially made for
rod brakes, since the brake pad contact surface is on the inside of the rim near the spokes
instead of on the side of the rim near the tire, as used in caliper and linear
brake designs.
In case you’re wondering how rod brakes work on nice shiny
chrome rims, they don’t. In Portland during the summer dry
season, meh; in wet weather, not so good. Stopping when going downhill in wet weather...well, I hope your life insurance
policy is current.
But despite their faults, I love the look of rod brakes. Rod brakes
add to the retro mystique with all the chrome bits and levers. They look steampunk in a way. That being said, there’s a lot of chrome
parts that need to be replaced or re-plated on Philbert.
Anything with a bearing will need to be overhauled and repacked
I haven’t opened up the headset, bottom bracket, pedals and hubs,
but let’s just say they’re a bit “crunchy”.
Hopefully the races aren't too pitted.
The paint is shot
The bike will need a complete repaint and new decal set, unless you’re into the whole patina look, which I’m not. Let’s face it, Philbert has no monetary or historical value, even though it’s 53 years old.
In my mind, patina should be reserved for museum pieces and other rarities.
The seat looks like a medieval torture device. The pictures speak for themselves
I'm going to see if it can be put use as an actual seat but time will tell.
The wheels are shot and need a complete rebuild
That's a stick on the left side of the top tube not a random part of the bike. I did a double take myself when I saw the photo |
At least the rims, although rusty in some areas, are the
originals manufactured by Dunlop, and are fairly straight. The tires are not original and dry rotted, so there’s no
reason to bother with them. I’ll replace
the tubes as well.
The Sturmey Archer AW 3 speed hub doesn't shift. It could be the shifter, the hub, or maybe just
a lube and adjustment are all that's needed to get it up and running.
The forks are bent. At this point I’m not sure if they can be reset or are too far gone and need to be replaced. I don’t see any damage to the frame but plan to get the frame checked out anyway for another concern...
There’s a small dent in the downtube next to the bottom
bracket.
Since the downtube tends to be one of the more stressed tubes
on a bike frame and it's near the bottom bracket, I plan to bring Philbert in to get a professional opinion on
whether or not it compromises the structural integrity.